Posts tagged Mountaineering
Expedition: Batian North Face (Mt. Kenya)


Next week I’m off to Kenya where I’ll attempt to climb Batian via the North Face route. Mt. Kenya, the second-highest mountain in Africa, stands at 17,057 ft (5,199m) at it’s highest point, Batian. This will be my first time back in the hills since Everest season, and my excitement is at an all-time high! 

Although Mt. Kenya is much lower than Everest, climbing to the true summit is far more technical. The total climb will last seven days trailhead to trailhead allowing me just enough time to acclimate and wait for an optimal summit window. Summit day is a 12-16 hour slog involving 20+ pitches (up to 5.9) of alpine rock climbing at altitude. To an experienced rock climber, this is nothing, but I am not a rock climber which is precisely why I was attracted to this challenge. I have climbed rock, yes, but while doing so I have been told that I resemble Clark Griswold in the Vegas Vacation Hover Dam scene.

I will be posting audio dispatches along the way, this shall be interesting. 

Everest Packing List

The final countdown is on. March 25th is rapidly approaching and I’m nervously basking in the anticipation. And because I can’t control time, I’m obsessing over the one thing I can control; preparing. Put it this way, if you saw a list of my Google searches over the past two weeks you’d probably want to hug me and punch me in the face at the same time. However, through my web-search expedition I’ve managed to compile approximately 37 different packing lists. Some say four pairs of “man panties” (underwear), others say five. It’s a real dilemma. Drawing from this binder of packing lists I’ve finally put together a comprehensive list of my own. 

For those interested, here is my official packing list for Everest 2013.

Alan Arnette Interview

As part of his Everest 2013 coverage Alan Arnette has been conducting interviews with some of this seasons climbers. Dawes Eddy is a tough act to follow but here is my interview:

Everest Training Update

Last week I wrapped up the strength-focus phase of my Everest training program with 1RM testing. I couldn’t have been happier with the results.

  • Deadlift: 415
  • Back Squat: 405
  • Front Squat: 290
  • Power Clean: 275
  • Snatch: 205
  • Bench: 265
  • 5k time: 19:49

Starting weight (8/15): 198lbs

Finishing weight (11/28): 210lbs

With less than four months to go it’s time to shift the focus to endurance and get my nutrition dialed-in. While lifting heavy is fun, I know it’s not going to get me up the mountain. For the next two months my training will be 70% aerobic and 30% anaerobic. This means I’ll be ramping-up the running, cycling and metabolic conditioning and backing off the heavy lifting. In early January I’ll have an opportunity to train at altitude while leading a group up Kilimanjaro and then head right to Colorado until I leave for Nepal.

The nerves have settled in nicely; there is no denying that they exist but I’ve developed an almost harmonious working relationship with them. They drive my training to new levels everyday and demand upon me unwavering focus. Every once in a while I need to remind myself to enjoy the process because even though I write this from the comforts of my home, my climb on Mt. Everest is very much so underway.