Posts tagged adventure
Expedition: Batian North Face (Mt. Kenya)


Next week I’m off to Kenya where I’ll attempt to climb Batian via the North Face route. Mt. Kenya, the second-highest mountain in Africa, stands at 17,057 ft (5,199m) at it’s highest point, Batian. This will be my first time back in the hills since Everest season, and my excitement is at an all-time high! 

Although Mt. Kenya is much lower than Everest, climbing to the true summit is far more technical. The total climb will last seven days trailhead to trailhead allowing me just enough time to acclimate and wait for an optimal summit window. Summit day is a 12-16 hour slog involving 20+ pitches (up to 5.9) of alpine rock climbing at altitude. To an experienced rock climber, this is nothing, but I am not a rock climber which is precisely why I was attracted to this challenge. I have climbed rock, yes, but while doing so I have been told that I resemble Clark Griswold in the Vegas Vacation Hover Dam scene.

I will be posting audio dispatches along the way, this shall be interesting. 

Navigating failure... Successfully

On May 16th, 2013 at 2:37AM I was one-thousand vertical feet away from achieving my life-long goal.  I could taste it. I had visualized this moment countless times over my two years of training and preparation.  It was summit night on Mt. Everest, and I was in a zen-like state of focus. So focused in fact that I didn’t realize, or wouldn’t admit to myself, that the weather conditions around me had quickly shifted from unfavorable to flat-out dangerous.

The cry of an anguished prayer broke my summit-fever. It was the voice of Kancha, my Nepali climbing partner.  Looking at him, I realized that we had entered a cloud of Rime Ice that was beginning to freeze our oxygen masks and corneas.  With winds gusting to 85mph and the temperature hovering around -30F, it felt like we were strapped to the wing of a 747 aircraft.  And just like that I knew our summit attempt was over.  I was crushed. 


Moments before my summit push at Camp 4. 

In my four years of high-altitude climbing and guiding I had never once been turned around due to weather.  And to be perfectly honest, the thought of not reaching the summit of Mt. Everest had never crossed my mind.  It was a forgone conclusion, I had put in the work and nothing was going to stop me.  Until it did. 

Dealing with this defeat has been one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done; far more trying than any day on Mt. Everest.  Now would be a good moment for me to string together a score of motivational cliches telling you  to deny human emotion and push through the pain.  Fortunately for you, thats not what I’m going to do because the fact remains that failure is inevitable and inevitably painful.  If you are truly willing to chase after your dreams, to lay it all on the line, and give it everything you got, you have opened yourself up to the possibility of failure.  And, when it comes, it’s going to hurt. 

Here are five things I’ve found helpful in dealing with disappointment as a result of athletic endeavors or otherwise. 

1. Allow yourself time.

Whether you dropped-out during your first trail race or injured yourself while training, you need to allow yourself time to digest the disappointment.  Allow yourself to feel it.  Sit with it.  Acquaint yourself with disappointment; the evil step-sister of success. 

2. Don’t make any major decisions.

Your not thinking clearly.  You’re questioning everything.  Decisions at this stage in the game will be made from a point of raw emotion and not rational thought. 

3. Take care of your body.

This is the most important step along the way.  Stay away from the extremes.   Don’t try to jump back into a training routine and certainly don’t stop exercising and eating right.  Listen to your body and give it what it needs. 

4. Talk to people.

It can be a dark world listening to your own thoughts day-in and day-out.  Seek out a training partner or climbing buddy and talk about your experience.  You’ll be surprised what you’ll hear yourself say. 

5. Answer the question.

The most beautiful thing about not achieving your goal is that despite everything else you’re always left with a choice; are you going to call it quits or are you going to use the failure as fuel?

It’s never a true failure until you stop trying. 


Peter Hillary, son of Edmund Hillary, knows a thing or two about disappointment. 

After a seamless journey to Nepal I’ve spent the past few days in Kathmandu making final preparations and sneaking-out for a bit of culture. Our team is made up of people from all over the world; Norway, Austria, Hong Kong, and good ol’ ‘merica. For privacy purposes I will not be blogging about the other members of our team; it’s not my story to tell. Although I will say that we have a fantastic group of strong climbers and I look forward to getting to know them over the next few months. 
The expedition officially kicks off tomorrow with the infamous flight to Lukla; a story-book village nestled into the foothills of the Himalaya in a region known as the Khumbu Valley. Some consider this flight the most dangerous part of the trip as the landing strip in Lukla is shorter than most go-kart tracks and is punctuated with a massive wall of rock. From Lukla we’ll begin our two-week trek into Base Camp taking more time than normal to allow for maximum acclimatization. 
Check in soon…
Gear Review: Merrell Mix Master Tuff Mid


As part of the new Mconnect line Merrell introduced a minimalist hiking shoe. the Mix Master Tuff Mid.

From Merrell,

A little extra ankle support and durability does not equate extra bulk with our Mix Master Tough Mid. This super lightweight minimalist hiking shoe delivers an agile ride with its pared-down profile and 4mm drop for better ground feel. Its reinforced upper’s waterproof membrane keeps feet dry, and the sticky lugs propel you on pavement and packed trails.”

This shoe is a game-changer for me. For years I’ve hiked/trekked/approached in trail-runners simply because I could never justify the extra weight and bulk associated with a hiking boot. These shoes offer all of the benefits of a trail running shoe (lightweight, comfortable) while providing valuable ankle support. When on a long approach like the trek into Everest Base Camp or Aconcagua, one twisted ankle can ruin an entire expedition. This shoe will ensure that you arrive at base camp healthy and ready to climb. It has solved the difficult equation of comfort, functionality, and performance; it wears like a shoe and performs like a boot. 

I’ll be wearing these on my trek into Everest Base Camp in a few weeks. 

Price: $140

Get yourself a pair here.



Colorado Training: Week 1

After three weeks in Kenya and Tanzania and a four-day road trip from R.I. to CO I was, strangely enough, dying to get back into a routine. After all Everest is less than two-months away and I’ve got a lot of work do!

Sunday morning Jason and I headed into Rocky Mountain National Park to scratch around a little and get some altitude. Our goal was to climb “Martha” on Mt. Lady Washington (13,281ft), but we ended up heading up the couloir right before Martha. The route offered three mixed sections including an overhanging choss/chockstone constriction, certainly not a classic but it was good to get a ten-hour day in the hills!

The rest of the week I spent running, cycling, and training out of ATC and RallySport. This weekend we’re going to head to Leadville to get some running in! Here are a few pictures from the week:

(Day one at The Alpine Training Center in my “birthday vest”)


(Nice little run up Green Mt. with my Merrell Mix Master 2s)


(My set up at RallySport)
Alan Arnette Interview

As part of his Everest 2013 coverage Alan Arnette has been conducting interviews with some of this seasons climbers. Dawes Eddy is a tough act to follow but here is my interview:

What folly to think that anyone climbs Everest for the views, or the thrills, or the bragging rights, or vaguest of all, because it’s there. What’s there is this: the chance to be worthy of your own dreams.
— Nick Heil